AP Royal Oak Design Evolution

Popularly known as one of the most celebrated timepieces ever made, the AP Royal Oak design is one for the books. Rightfully, the Royal Oak design evolution holds its place in the history books with an outstanding wave of growth. 

Made in 1972 as a part of a heroic new era for watch design, this timepiece presents a “body of steel and heart of gold.” According to watching legend, the introduction of the AP Royal Oak saved the world of luxury watchmaking. 

Furthermore, history tells us how Audemars Piguet took a huge risk in moving forward with the rule-breaking Royal Oak. The product of this risk was an industry-wide revolution thanks to this brand-new variety of horology. However, those who observe Audemars Piguet’s technical and aesthetic successes might not be overly impressed. This feat is less a revolution than the Royal Oak design evolution that runs through the history of the brand.

The Pace-Setting Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet introduced many of the world’s firsts. Amongst them are:

• The minute repeater timepiece in 1892
• The skeletonized wristwatch in 1934
• The thinnest watch in 1946

Among the several achievements of this manufacturer, the Royal Oak is still the most distinguished. This timepiece is a special contribution from AP to the history of watchmaking. First, it debuted the very first luxury sports timepiece. Also, it presaged the way we wear wristwatches today. 

Overall, these inventions were often creative adaptations to the evolving needs of the periods with the 1970s being the core of the period, a dive into the evolution of the AP Royal Oak design will reveal a clear through-line of technological ingenuity.

Horology at its Best through the Ages

Established in 1875 in the Swiss town of Le Brassus, Audemars Piguet began a journey to be one of the most famed watchmakers globally. This watchmaker prides itself on time-honored creativity, mastery, and drive for creativity in its designs. 

This brand is the story of Jules Louis Audemars (1851–1918) and Edward Auguste Piguet (1853–1919). These two were respectively fourth and fifth-generation watchmakers with thriving careers in the watchmaking world. So, when these two joined forces, the emergence of industrial machinery and serial production was inevitable. 

The Audemars Piguet brand took its toll on traditional watchmaking methods. In these early years, the two friends held to hand-crafting specialized means. They soon established their brand as an ace in ultra-complicated pocket watch designs.

More so, Audemars Piguet played a leading role in the growth of the watchmaking world. As for the AP Royal Oak, it helped to lay the foundation of the brand’s exploits in form and function. Rather importantly, they also invested their horological aptitude in designing the movements of female timepieces. According to the fashion of the times, they served as brooches, pendants, or rings. 

Furthermore, Audemars Piguet racked up these painstaking technical accomplishments in miniature. On a larger scale, Audemars Piguet remains a pioneer in the development of the watchmaking industry. Cheers to a brand that served as the base upon which various watchmaking brands now build on in function and style. 

Audemars Piguet Landmarks 

1. 1892

Audemars Piguet worked together with Louis Brandt & Frère to manufacture the first timepiece in watchmaking history to come equipped with a minute repeater device.

2. 1899

Also, the brand focused on complicated watches from the beginning. Made and mastered in Audemars Piguet’s workshops in 1899, the Universelle became one of the most complicated watches of its era.

3. 1921

From the start of the 20th century, Audemars Piguet advocated miniaturization. The brand produced a movement of seven lignes in diameter (15.8 mm). This production will be the smallest 5-minute repeater in the world and the production came in 1921.

4. 1938

This year, we welcomed the 9ML caliber and its successor caliber 2003. These creations embody consummate finesse with a remarkable thickness of 1.64 mm.

5. 1967

We welcomed the Caliber 2120 developed by Audemars Piguet. This production was a project overseen by Jaeger-LeCoultre. And the result is an ultra-thin automatic movement.

6. 1972

Welcome the first Royal Oak, reference 5402. Here is a production that toppled watchmaking norms with its steel case, octagonal bezel, and ‘Tapisserie’ dial. Once again, Audemars Piguet sets the pace.

7. 1978

This year, AP released the self-winding perpetual calendar, Caliber 2120/2800. It was the thinnest in the world (3.95 mm). This output announced the comeback of complicated mechanisms as the quartz crisis began. 

8. 1983

Production of the initial Royal Oak Perpetual calendar. This was the reference 5554 that later became reference 25554. It eventually became available to the public in 1984

9. 1986

The brand launched the first self-winding tourbillon timepiece ever made in an extra-thin case. The case measures 5.3 mm in thickness. More so, the tourbillon remains one of the tiniest in the world with its 7.2 mm diameter.

10. 1993

The introduction of the first Royal Oak Offshore. This timepiece has a 42 mm diameter that helped to pioneer the production of large watches. Also, there was the introduction of the leap year inkling on the perpetual calendars.

11. 1996

The introduction of the reference 25800 Royal Oak perpetual calendar. This tool is not a product of the caliber 2120. Plus, it offers an unusual option to the regular 39mm size. Also, there was the introduction of the Offshore with colorful dials and leather straps that match.

Again, there came the grand complication reference 25865 wielding the caliber 2885. This came with the minute repeater split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar.

12. 1997

The launch of the first Royal Oak Offshore has a perpetual calendar. That’s the reference 25854BC

13. 2002

This year marked the advent of the Royal Oak Concept in commemoration of the 30th anniversary of the iconic 1972 original version.

14. 2015

Audemars Piguet launched the reference 26574 in a 41mm case and features the new caliber 5134. AP gave us a new perpetual calendar Royal Oak equipped with a week indicator.

15. 2016

Lastly, it was also released in 2016. The Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie reference 26577 laid a new benchmark in minute repeater acoustic execution.

Royal Oak Design Evolution: Impacting History

Redeeming the Mechanical Watch 

Let’s take a trip to the early 1970s when the so-called “quartz crisis” wreaked havoc in the world of Swiss watches. One solace was the introduction of quartz-powered movements. These movements presented an option that was economical, accessible, and more reliable than dress watches of the period. 

As a result, there was an existential crisis for traditional mechanical watches and their makers. Also, consumers adopted more active lifestyles and grew soft spots for extreme sports. As we witnessed this global backdrop of cultural alterations and a depressed economy, highly complicated (and fragile) dress watches didn’t feel like the right fit with the times anymore.

In reaction to the upheavals, an Audemars Piguet executive and celebrated designer, Gérald Genta took a bold step. On the eve of the Basel Watch Fair, Genta got instructions to imagine a new variety of fine watches that would be bold and futuristic. These watches would appeal to a new era of clients. Also, and most importantly, they would be products of stainless steel. What happened the next day was Audemars Piguet introducing sketches for the AP Royal Oak design.

Allowing Stainless Steel Steal the Show

In those early years, steel was yet to earn recognition as an accepted material. Watchmakers found it too utilitarian to be used in Haute Horlogerie. Also, fine watches had up until then been nearly always gold or platinum. 

It takes its name from the iconic royal oak that preserved King Charles II of England in battle as well as the steel-hulled warships used by the British Navy. Thanks to the Royal Oak design evolution, the stainless steel stole the show to become an excellent and grand material. 

Additionally, there were also rational considerations. Consider how much harder it is to work steel compared to gold. Hence, it demanded investment in new tools and techniques for the procedure of advanced ref finishing. Moreover, the signature hand-polished and satin-brushed finishing bolster the aesthetic lines of the wristwatch.

Ultra-Slim Shape; Always in Good Shape

The first AP Royal Oak designs had models equipped with the caliber 2121 movement. This movement came in an ultra-slim shape and took inspiration from the caliber 2120. The latter is also a product made in-house by Audemars Piguet in 1967. Here is the world’s thinnest self-winding movement at the time with date indication, and an overall height measuring 3.05mm. 

In addition, the caliber 2121 also came equipped with a Gyromax balance and anti-shock system. These tools came housed in an incredibly durable metal case. That protection allowed the AP Royal Oak design to survive the heavy impact. 

Meanwhile, the focus and stress are often on the way Audemars Piguet designed the first “luxury sports watches.” However, these creations also emphasize the crucial fact that the watchmaker was also a pace-setter in ultra-slim movements. In 1978, six years after the launch of the AP Royal Oak original design, the brand introduced the caliber 2120/2800. This introduction spurred revived attraction and growth in classic complications for the entire watchmaking world.

Breaking New Grounds and Making New Rules

The release of the AP Royal Oak design along with the growth of the caliber 2120/2800 helped the brand break new grounds. These two events set the stage for crucial technical and design procedures for Audemars Piguet in the next 50 years. 

Building on its original AP Royal Oak design, the Royal Oak has a great aesthetic array of fresh designs over time. Beginning with varying sizes to the broad variety of adopted materials, Audemars Piguet gets you in for a show. Materials used over time in all of these AP Royal Oak design models include:

• Titanium
• Platinum
• Gold 
• Ceramics

More so, there are various dial designs and colors on display and available for purchase. With the varieties in the AP Royal Oak design collection, the additions are not a surprise. AP witnessed the inclusion of complex complications and escapements all through the run of this model’s production. Novel introductions over time include:

• A double balance wheel mechanism 
• Tourbillon
• Perpetual calendar
• Lunar cycle
• Grandes Complications
• Minute repeaters

Bringing in the Future in Huge Timepieces

Audemars launched the AP Royal Oak Offshore in 1993. This new AP Royal Oak design updated Genta’s initial design. It came in as a big package of 42 mm diameter and 15 mm in thickness which earns it the nickname, “the Beast.” This is the watch for the phenomenal watch fans.

With a huge case size, this revamped reimagining of the legendary Royal Oak established the trend of large-sized timepieces. With the new AP Royal Oak design, we got an improved version of the original. Now, there is the inclusion of:

• The anti-magnetic cover for the movement. 
• A chronograph complication
• Curved bracelet links
• Stylized crown protection
• Rubber details

Nevertheless, the launch of the AP Royal Oak Offshore had a polarizing effect at the start. But, it soon gained devotees among younger crops of watch collectors. Arnold Schwarzenegger, like other celebrities, was so impressed by the AP Royal Oak Offshore. He commissioned a personalized model, which sparked a sensation when we saw it in his movie “End of Days.” 

Overall, the AP Royal Oak Offshore collection since its launch continues to evolve through an extended developmental journey. Now we have AP Royal Oak designs crafted in models that bear a connection to basketball players, F1 racing, and other sporting events. Also, there are more than 130 variations, presently.

Evolving Beyond Now

The AP Royal Oak design evolution will be incomplete without mentioning the latest and most forward-thinking Royal Oak design. Audemars Piguet honored the 30th anniversary of their most celebrated timepiece with a different translation of the first design. The Royal Oak Concept presents the AP Royal Oak design evolution in the best light ever witnessed. 

This 2002 introduction embodies another key AP Royal design evolution with a design motivated by the ultra-modern aesthetics of Concept vehicles. This new design concept is an adventure into what the brand acknowledges the Royal Oak design will be in the future. Audemars Piguet looks forward to refined technical accuracy complementing cutting-edge micro-mechanics in a new model.  

In all, the Royal Oak Concept utilizes the application of materials used in the aeronautics industry. Now, you find creative and highly durable alloys that are light and exceptionally solid. Following the AP Royal Oak design evolution from the 1972 Royal Oak, the Concept is a usable and one-of-a-kind sports and lifestyle luxury time tool.