Rolex Datejust: Fluted vs Smooth vs Diamond Bezel
When it comes to buying the famed Rolex Datejust, you get the pleasure of choosing different style options – size, metal, dial, bracelet and bezel. While this is awesome because you can choose a style that you love and it allows you to differentiate yourself from others, it can be hard to make up your mind on exactly what you want.
One of the main questions people have is, “should I get a fluted, smooth or diamond bezel?” This is because the bezel is one of the major design options. In the end, you should go for whatever speaks to you best. It’s you who will be wearing the watch. However, it is good to get all of the information so you can make an informed choice. After all, besides personal preference, there are a few pros and cons to each of the bezel options.
As such, we are about to present to you a Rolex Datejust Fluted vs Smooth vs Diamond Bezel Comparison. In this, we will also be discussing the various size, metal, dial and bracelet options for each bezel type. By reading this, you will have all the information you need and it should make your decision easier when buying a Rolex Datejust.
ROLEX DATEJUST
The Datejust collection has been a staple of the Rolex catalog for over 8 decades. First released in 1945, it was Rolex’s flagship dress watch celebrating 40 years of watchmaking.
The Rolex Datejust was the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to indicate the date on the dial. It was also the first model to have a waterproof case.
After 10 years, Rolex introduced the instant date-change mechanism that allowed the date to be changed in a matter of milliseconds exactly at midnight. They also added the cyclops eye to magnify the date window. Both of these features are expected in the modern day, but at the time, it was a major development.
Today, the Datejust is one of the most historical and iconic luxury watches ever made. It is a status symbol among affluential people and a must-have for any watch collector’s watch box.
Variations in the design of the Rolex Datejust
Over the years, the Datejust collection has seen many iterations, yet it has always kept its fundamental DNA – a classy, elegant, well-balanced, perfectly proportioned dress watch that you can be proud to wear on any occasion.
The Datejust comes in various styles in terms of case size, metals, dial colors, appliqués, bracelet types, and bezels. Before we get into the purpose of this post – Smooth vs Fluted vs Diamond Bezel – let’s talk about the other design options.
Models:
Currently speaking, the Datejust collection includes the Datejust 31, Datejust 34, Datejust 36, and Datejust 41. The numbers represent the case size in millimeters.
Within the range of sizes in the Datejust collection, there are many choices for design details, some small nuances (i.e. dial appliqués) and others more significant style options (i.e. bracelet type).
Bracelets:
Depending on the specific model and reference, a Datejust may have an Oyster bracelet, Jubilee bracelet, or President bracelet. The most common are Oyster bracelets and Jubilee bracelets.
Dial:
The colors for the dial are numerous, so we will only discuss the appliqués. For those who don’t know, the term “appliqués” refers to the hour markers. They are hand applied, hence the name appliqués.
Datejust watches can feature hour batons, Roman numerals, diamond indices or Arabic numerals. We put Arabic numerals last as they are the least common, with only some fluted bezel Datejust 34s and 36s having them.
Metals:
Datejust watches are crafted from all of Rolex’s metal types except platinum. Thus, you can find Datejust watches in Oystersteel (Rolex’s patented stainless steel), both types of Rolesor (two-tone white gold & steel and two-tone yellow gold & steel), yellow gold, Everose gold (Rolex’s patented rose gold) and white gold.
While there are all of the above metal options, Rolex does not produce many full gold versions of the Datejust, especially white gold at the moment. Right now, only certain Datejust 31’s with a diamond bezel come in white gold. Rose gold and yellow gold is also more scarce. Most Datejust watches are steel or two-tone gold and steel. For example, the Datejust 41 collection has no full gold options.
Note: It should go without saying, all of Rolex’s metals are produced in-house at their very own foundry. They are highly regarded as the best metal alloys in the watchmaking industry.
We mention all of the above design details because we will be referring to them when discussing which is better, a fluted, smooth or diamond bezel. Knowing all of the options should help you with your decision. Whatever you choose, you can be confident that all of Rolex’s materials are of the highest quality.
ROLEX DATEJUST – FLUTED BEZEL VS SMOOTH BEZEL VS DIAMOND BEZEL
Unlike Rolex sports watches which have one style of bezel with different color options, the bezel of a Datejust comes in various designs. You have the fluted bezel, smooth bezel, and diamond bezel. The style of the bezel makes a considerable difference to the overall look of the watch. The most traditional is, of course, the fluted bezel, but these days the smooth bezel is also very popular. It just depends on personal preferences.
Below we will discuss, in-depth, each of the types of Rolex Datejust bezels so you can decide which kind of bezel is right for you.
FLUTED BEZEL
The original Datejust had a fluted bezel with a jubilee bracelet. This is why it is universally accepted that the fluted bezel is the most classic look for the Datejust.
Initially, the fluting of Rolex bezels had purpose beyond aesthetics. The fluted bezel allowed the bezel to be screwed down onto the middle of the case to ensure its waterproofness.
Nowadays, the fluted bezel is solely ornamental. The fluted bezel gives the Rolex Datejust a distinctive look. It’s as iconic as Rolex itself.
Now, what could be a pro to you may be a con to others. For example, the fluted bezel is more flashy. It hits the light like cut gems. Moreover, the fluted bezel Datejust is dressier, which some would say makes it less versatile than the smooth bezel.
One advantage that we can all agree on is the fluted bezel won’t show scratches like a smooth bezel Datejust.
As for price, the fluted bezel will add some money to the cost of the Datejust. They are more complicated to create, but more than that, all of Rolex’s fluted bezels are made from gold, even on stainless steel versions.
Fluted Bezel Rolex Datejust Style Options:
Besides the fluted bezel itself, you need to consider what style options come with fluted bezel Datejusts. In terms of fluted bezels, the Datejust collection as a whole has all metal types besides white gold, all bracelet options, and all styles of appliqués. However, the options vary based on the model.
Below we will go over all of the essential options for fluted Datejust watches based on the model.
Fluted Bezel Datejust 31
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
- Yellow Gold
- Rose Gold
No fully white gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
- President Bracelet
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Arabic Numerals
- Diamonds
Fluted Bezel Datejust 34
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
No fully gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
No president bracelet option**
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Arabic Numerals
- Diamonds
Fluted Bezel Datejust 36
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
No fully gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
No president bracelet option**
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Arabic Numerals
- Diamonds
Fluted Bezel Datejust 41
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
No fully gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
No president bracelet option**
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Diamonds
No Arabic numeral option**
SMOOTH BEZEL
While the fluted bezel is the most traditional for the Rolex Datejust collection, the smooth bezel is Rolex’s most traditional bezel of all. Before the Datejust collection, Rolex watches had a smooth bezel.
The smooth bezel of the Datejust is domed. It is understated, versatile and timeless in style. And even though the smooth bezel has been around for as long as Rolex, on the Datejust, it gives the watch a contemporary, sleek look. The smooth bezel makes for a more sporty look, like a tool watch that is durable and robust, yet it still looks fantastic dressed up for a formal occasion.
There are some disadvantages to the smooth bezel in that the scratches show easier, and some say it is not as proportional with the dial as a fluted bezel. In regards to the scratches, most don’t find this to be an issue. Not to mention, you can polish off the scratches easily (but don’t do that if you plan to resell it someday). And to the point of proportions, that is a matter of personal taste.
As for price, smooth bezel Rolex Datejust watches cost a bit less than fluted bezels, even the gold versions.
Smooth Bezel Rolex Datejust Style Options:
You will have slightly different style options with smooth bezel Datejust watches than you do with fluted bezels. You have all of the metals except white gold, all of the bracelet types and all of the appliqués excluding Arabic numerals.
Let’s have a look at all of the specific options based on the four Datejust models.
Smooth Bezel Datejust 31
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
- Yellow Gold
- Rose Gold
No fully white gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
- President Bracelet
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Diamonds
No Arabic numeral option**
Smooth Bezel Datejust 34
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
No fully gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
No president bracelet option**
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Arabic Numerals
No Arabic numeral option**
Smooth Bezel Datejust 36
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
No fully gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
No president bracelet option**
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Arabic Numerals
No Arabic numeral option**
Smooth Bezel Datejust 41
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
No fully gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
No president bracelet option**
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Diamonds
No Arabic numeral option**
DIAMOND BEZEL
Diamond bezels are the “loudest” bezel choice of them all. They are also the most expensive. But, if you like diamonds, it is so worth it. Diamond bezel Datejust watches are magnificent looking in real life. Pictures just don’t do them justice. They will catch your eye and attention like no other. They’re true stunners.
The only downfall is they are harder to clean by yourself. However, if you take a diamond bezel Datejust to a local jewelry store like Diamonds By Raymond Lee in Boca Raton, they can clean it perfectly in seconds.
Another thing to note is a question some people have about the diamonds security. People wonder if they will fall out. With factory set diamond bezels, this is not something you need to worry about. The only way they’re falling out is if you damage the integrity of the bezel. If stones do happen to get loose, you can take it to a jewelry store or an official Rolex dealer to have them tighten things up. It can be done very quickly.
Diamond Bezel Rolex Datejust Style Options:
Diamond-set bezels are reserved for Rolex’s most exclusive watches. Thus, you will be more limited in your options.
Diamond Bezel Datejust 31
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
- Yellow Gold
- Rose Gold
- White Gold
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
- President Bracelet
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Diamonds
No Arabic numeral option**
Diamond Bezel Datejust 34
There are no diamond bezel Datejust 34s.
Diamond Bezel Datejust 36
Metals:
- Stainless Steel
- Two-Tone (both Rolesor options)
No fully gold option**
Bracelets:
- Oyster Bracelet
- Jubilee Bracelet
No president bracelet option**
Appliques:
- Batons
- Roman numerals
- Diamonds
No Arabic numeral option**
Diamond Bezel Datejust 41
There are no diamond bezel Datejust 41s.
Note: If you want a diamond bezel Datejust 41, you can turn to aftermarket customizations. The Datejust 41 is a very popular watch and because of this many people add aftermarket diamonds to them.
You can learn more about aftermarket custom watches here. At Diamonds By Raymond Lee in Boca Raton, we can do any aftermarket customization, big or small. We have an expert gem-setter and the highest quality stones. Furthermore, we can create a bezel from scratch. That way you can keep your original bezel and switch things up when you want. Not to mention, not lose any value of your watch.
FLUTED, SMOOTH, OR DIAMOND BEZEL, WHICH IS BEST?
Fluted bezel, smooth bezel and diamond bezel Rolex Datejust watches are not better than one another, they are just different. So, the question really is, which is best for you?
The easiest way to look at it is…The fluted bezel is best if you want a classic, more flashy, more dressy look. The smooth bezel Datejust is best if you want a more versatile, contemporary appearance. And the diamond bezel is great if you want to make a lavish statement and money is of no concern. Whichever option you choose, it should be based on your personal taste.
If you decide to go for the fluted bezel Datejust, any Datejust model will be great. However, if you want a smooth bezel, the general consensus is the best Datejust for the smooth bezel is the 41mm, as it is more suitable for the larger, modern case size.
Classic option: Fluted bezel with a jubilee bracelet
Most versatile: Smooth bezel 41mm with an Oyster bracelet
Most modern: Smooth bezel 41mm with a Jubilee bracelet.
What about resale value?
In terms of resale value, all Rolex watches hold their value well. The Datejust, not as much as other collections, but still great nonetheless. As for the bezel types, the fluted bezels likely have a little better resale value as they are easier to sell. This is because more people want fluted Datejust watches.
We did a survey and found that around 2/3 of people want fluted bezel Rolex Datejust watches.
SECOND HAND DATEJUST WATCHES
The smartest Rolex watch buyer’s know that the vast majority of Rolex watches are best bought on the second hand market. There are few Rolex watches that you can buy new at MSRP for cheaper than pre-owned on the secondary market. These special highly sought after Rolex watches are generally steel sports watches.
When it comes to the Rolex Datejust, they will always be cheaper on the second hand market, and more often than not, they look just as good as new.
Besides getting a better deal, the value will remain stable if you buy a Rolex Datejust on the second hand market. Only the initial buyer will lose value. When you buy new, as soon as you walk out of the door, it will lose around 30% of its value. However, once it’s pre-owned, the value is consistent. You will only lose the small mark up that the jewelry store puts on the watch. You could go and resell a second hand Rolex Datejust right away for nearly the same price you got it for. Sometimes even more if you got a great deal.
ROLEX DATEJUST WATCHES AT DIAMONDS BY RAYMOND LEE AND RAYMOND LEE JEWELERS IN BOCA RATON
Want a Rolex Datejust? At Diamonds By Raymond Lee (our newest showroom) and Raymond Lee Jewelers (our flagship store) in Boca Raton, we have an extensive collection of beautiful Rolex Datejust watches at a great price. You can buy from us online or in-store. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us.
See our collection of Rolex Datejust watches at Diamonds By Raymond Lee
See our collection of Rolex Datejust watches at Raymond Lee Jewelers