Articles:
CW21 Watchmaker
Pre-Owned Jewelry

GOLD

Gold won't tarnish, rust, or corrode, and though it's very strong, it is also the most malleable of all metals.

Pure gold is too soft to withstand the stresses of every-day wear, so it is alloyed with a mixture of metals like silver, copper, nickel, and zinc to give it strength and durability. Karatage, noted by a number followed by "k" indicates purity, or how much of the metal in a piece of jewelry is gold. Karatage is expressed in 24ths, making 24k gold 100% gold.

The color of gold is determined by two factors:

1.  The type of metal alloys included in it
2.  The percentage of each metal alloy

YELLOW GOLD

As a rule, 18k gold contains more precious metal than 14k gold. It is composed of 75% gold, which is alloyed with other metals to make it strong enough to withstand every-day wear. Because 14k gold is composed of only 58.3% gold, and 41.7% other metals that give it strength, its gold color is not as rich as 18k gold. 14k gold is most commonly found in cases where strength is most important, like in earring backs and bracelet clasps.

Gold, element Au, was one of the first known metals. The gold standard defines the world's currency system, whereby money represents a value in gold.
24 karat = 100% gold - Too soft for jewelry
22 karat = 91.7% gold - Very soft � not recommended for jewelry
18 karat = 75.0% gold - Recommended for fine jewelry
14 karat = 58.3% gold - Recommended for jewelry
12 karat = 50.0% gold - Not acceptable for jewelry
10 karat = 41.7% gold - The legal karat limit considered as real gold in the United States

WHITE GOLD

Because 18k white gold is 75% gold, and 14k white gold is 58.3% gold, jewelry made from these metals has a slight yellow color. To enhance the whiteness, almost all white gold is plated with rhodium, a shiny, white metal which is extremely hard. Depending on the amount of wear to a piece of jewelry, over time this rhodium plating may wear off, revealing the original metal color. Re-plating is a simple process that can be done to restore your jewelry's whiteness if needed.

ROSE GOLD

Rose gold gets its color from a larger proportion of copper in the metal alloy. This gives the gold a beautiful pink color.

The price of gold jewelry is dependent upon the purity of the gold used or karat weight, as well as the design and construction of the piece of jewelry.

Keep your gold jewelry away from harsh chemicals such as chlorine and cleaning fluids. This will reduce daily abrasions and prolong gold's luster. To clean gold jewelry, use a solution of warm water and detergent-free soap and wash gold gently with a soft-bristled brush (a dull tooth brush works well). Store gold pieces separately in soft cloth bags or original boxes to protect them from the exposure to harsh daily elements.

ROLEX STYLE NUMBER GUIDE

SUBMARINER OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE

Stainless Steel
16610 - S.S. Pressure-Proof to 1000ft
16610V - 50th Anniversary Green Bezel
16800 - S.S. Pressure-Proof to 1000ft
1680 - S.S. Pressure-Proof to 660ft
Steel and Gold
16613 - S.S. Pressure-Proof to 1000ft, 18kt YG Bezel
16803 - S.S. Pressure-Proof to 1000ft, 18kt YG Bezel
Gold
16618 - 18kt YG Pressure-Proof to 1000ft
16808 - 18kt YG Pressure Proof to 1000ft
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SUBMARINER OYSTER PERPETUAL

14060 - S.S. Pressure-Proof to 1000ft
5513 - S.S. Pressure-Proof to 660ft
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GMT MASTER OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE

Stainless Steel
16700 - S.S. with 24 HR Bezel
16750 - S.S. with 24 HR Bezel
Steel and Gold
16753 - S.S. Case with 24 HR Bezel and 14kt Bezel
16753 - S.S. Case with 24 HR Bezel and 18kt Bezel
Gold
16758 - 18kt YG with 24 HR Bezel
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GMT MASTER II DATE

Stainless Steel
16710 - S.S. 24 HR Bezel
16760 - S.S. 24 HR Bezel
Steel and Gold
16713 - SS Case 24 HR Bezel and 18kt YG Bezel
116713 - SS Case 24 HR Bezel and 18kt YG Bezel
16718 - 18kt YG with 24 HR Bezel
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YACHTMASTER

Steel and Platinum
16622 - Gents
168622 - MidSize
169622 - Ladies
Steel and Gold
16623 - Gents
168623 - S.S. Case 18kt YG Bezel Midsize
68623 - S.S. Case 18kt YG Bezel Midsize
169623 - S.S. Case 18kt YG Bezel Ladies
69623 - S.S. Case 18kt YG Bezel Ladies
Gold
16628 - 18kt YG Pressure-Proof to 300ft 18kt YG Bezel
168628 - 18kt YG Mid-size Pressure-Proof to 300ft 18kt YG Bezel
68628 - 18kt YG Mid-size Pressure Proof to 300ft 18kt YG Bezel
169628 - 18kt YG Ladies Pressure-Proof to 300ft 18kt YG Bezel
69628 - 18kt YG Ladies Pressuer-Proof to 300ft 18kt YG Bezel
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SEA DWELLER OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE

16600 - SS Pressure-Proof to 4000ft Helium escape Valve Time Lapse Bezel
16660 - SS Pressure-Proof to 4000ft Helium Escape Valve Time Lapse Bezel
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OYSTERQUARTZ DATEJUST

Stainless Steel
17000 - SS
17014 - SS Case 18kt WG Bezel
Steel and Gold
17013 - SS Case 18kt YG Bezel and 18kt Bracelet
17013 - SS Case 14kt YG Bezel
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OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY DATE PRESIDENT

18238 - 18kt Fluted Bezel
118238 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
118238 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
118205 - 18kt PG Domed Bezel
118205 - 18kt PG Domed Bezel
18239 - 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
118239 - 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
118239 - 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
18248 - 18kt YG 
18346 - Platinum Bezel Set with 44 Brillians, 8 Brillians, and 2 Baguette Diamonds set on Dial
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OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY DATE PRESIDENT

118346 - Platinum Bezel Set w/ 52 Brilliants, 8 Brilliants, and 2 Baguette Diamonds
118206 - Platinum Pres w/ Dia Bezel
18038 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
18039 - 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
18078 - 18kt YG Bk Bezel
18026 - Platinum 8 Brilliants, 2 Baguette Dia on Dial
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OYSTER PERPETUAL

Stainless Steel
1002 - SS
1005 - SS
Steel and Gold
14203 - SS Case 18kt YG Bezel
1002 - SS Case 18kt Bezel
1005 - SS Case 18kt Fluted Bezel
Gold
14208 - 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
14238 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
1007 - 18kt YG 
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OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE

Stainless Steel
15200 - SS Smooth Bezel
15210 - SS ET Bezel
15000 - SS Smooth Bezel
15010 - SS ET Bezel
Steel and Gold
15203 - SS Case 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
15223 - SS Case 18kt YG ET Bezel
15053 - SS Case 18kt YG ET Bezel
15053 - SS Case 14kt YG ET Bezel
Gold
15238 - 18kt YG FLuted Bezel
15038 - 18kt YG FLuted Bezel
15037 - 14kt YG Fluted Bezel
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THUNDERBIRD OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST

16263 - SS Case 18kt YG Turn-o-Graph Bezel
16264 - 18kt WG Turn-o-Graph Bezel
116264 - 18kt WG Turn-o-Graph Bezel SS Case
116261 - 36mm 18kt PG Bezel
116263 - 36mm 18kt YG Bezel
16253 - SS Case 18kt T-O-G Bezel
16253 - SS Case 14kt T-O-G Bezel
16258 - 18kt YG T-O-G Bezel
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DAYTONA OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGRAPH

16520 - SS Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
*116520 - SS Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
16523 - SS Tach Eng on 18kt YG Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
*116523 - S&G Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
16518 - 18kt YG Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
*116518 - 18kt YG Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
16519 - 18kt WG Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons WG Strap
*116519 - 18kt WG Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
*116519 - Spec Add with Turquoise, Yellow or Pink MOOP Dial or Green Chryopaste Dial
16528 - 18kt YG Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
*116528 - 18kt YG Tach Eng on Bezel Screw Down Push Buttons
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EXPLORER II OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE

16570 - SS Case 24 HR Bezel 12 HR Hand
16550 - SS Case 24 HR Bezel 12 HR Hand
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EXPLORER OYSTER PERPETUAL

14270 - SS
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OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST

Stainless Steel
116200 - SS Domed Bezel
16200 - SS Smooth Bezel
16220 - SS ET Bezel
116234 - SS WG Fluted Bezel
16234 - SS WG Fluted Bezel
16030 - SS ET Bezel
16014 - SS WG Fluted Bezel
Steel and Gold
116203 - SS Case 18kt YG 36mm Smooth Bezel Hidden Clasp
116233 - SS Cae 18kt YG 36mm Fluted Bezel Hidden Clasp
16203 - SS Case 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
16233 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
16013 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
16013 - SS Case 14kt YG Fluted Bezel
Gold
116138 - 36mm 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
116139 - 36mm 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
116208 - 36mm 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
116238 - 36mm 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
16238 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
16248 - 18kt YG BK Bezel
16018 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
16078 - 18kt YG BK Bezel
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LADIES' MASTERPIECE

80318 - 18kt YG 29mm 12 Dia Bezel Dia Dial
69318 - 18kt YG 29mm 12 Dia Bezel Dia Dial
80319 - 18kt WG 29mm 12 Dia Bezel Dia Dial
69319 - 18kt WG 29mm 12 Dia Bezel Dia Dial
80298 - 18ktYG 29mm 32 Dia Bezel Dia Dial
69298 - 18kt YG 29mm 32 Dia Bezel Dia Dial
80299 - 18kt WG 29mm 32 Dia Bezel Dia Dial
69299 - 18kt WG 29mm 32 Dia Bezel Dia Dial
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GENTS' MASTERPIECE

18946 - Master Day Date 39mm Plat Bezel w/ 40 Brillians S&G Dial
18948 - Master Day Date 39mm 3-Color 18kt Tribor
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OYSTERQUARTZ DAY-DATE

19018 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
19019 - 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
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OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST MID-SIZE

Stainless Steel
178240 - SS Domed Bezel
78240 - SS Smooth Bezel
68240 - SS Smooth Bezel
78274 - SS 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
68274 - SS 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
Steel and Gold
178243 - SS and 18kt YG Domed Bezel
78273 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
68273 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
68243 - SS Case 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
Gold
78278 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
178278 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
68278 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
78248 - 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
178248 - 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
68248 - 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
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LADY OYSTER PERPETUAL

Stainless Steel
67194 - SS 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
76094 - SS 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
67230 - SS ET Bezel
76030 - SS ET Bezel
67180 - SS Smooth Bezel
66080 - SS Smooth Bezel
Steel and Gold
67193 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
76193 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
67243 - SS Case 18kt YG "Zephyr" Eng Bezel
76243 - SS Case 18kt YG "Zephyr" Eng Bezel
Gold
77518 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
67198 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
67197 - 14kt YG Fluted Bezel
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OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY DATE

Stainless Steel
69160 - SS Case Smooth Bezel
79160 - SS Case Smooth Bezel
69190 - SS Case ET Bezel
79190 - SS Case ET Bezel
69240 - SS Case ET Bezel
79240 - SS Case ET Bezel
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OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY DATEJUST

Stainless Steel
179160 - SS Domed Bezel
179174 - SS 18kt WG Bezel
69174 - SS Case 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
79174 - SS Case 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
Steel and Gold
179163 - 26mm SS and 18kt Smooth Bezel
179173 - 26mm SS and 18kt Fluted Bezel
69173 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
79173 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
69163 - SS Cae 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
79163 - SS Case 18kt YG Smooth Bezel
Gold
179178 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
179179 - 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
179175 - 18kt Pink Gold Fluted Bezel
79178 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
69178 - 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
79278 - 18kt YG Bk.Fn. Bezel
69278 - 18kt YG Bk.Fn. Bezel
79179 - 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
69179 - 18kt WG Fluted Bezel
79136 - Platinum Bezel Set with 40 Brilliants, 10 Brialliants Set in Dial
69136 - Platinum Bezel Ste with 40 Brilliants, 10 Brilliants Set in Dial
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AIR-KING OYSTER PERPETUAL

Stainless Steel
14000 - SS Smooth Bezel
14010 - SS ET Bezel
5500 - SS Smooth Bezel
Steel and Gold
5501 - SS Case 18kt YG Fluted Bezel
 

DIAMONDS

Diamond value is based on the four Cs. Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat.

CUT

There are three factors that are important in determining a diamond’s cut. They are brilliance, fire, and scintillation. Brilliance is the total amount of light that is reflected off of a diamond. Fire is the way that the light disperses into the different colors of the spectrum. Scintillation occurs through light flashes, or sparkle, and is observed when a diamond is moved.

To better understand the cut of a diamond, start by looking at shape. Traditionally, the most common and popular of all diamond shapes is the standard round brilliant, which has 58 facets, and is most common in finished jewelry pieces. Other shapes, called fancy shapes, include pear, marquise, emerald, and oval. There are also other fancy shapes that are becoming widely popular such as hearts, cushions, and triangles.

When valuing a diamond, cut is determined by the actual proportions of the diamond, which are polish and symmetry. Some of the parts of a diamond to be most aware of are the crown (the top) , the girdle (separation between the top and bottom), and the pavilion (the bottom part), that can be seen when looking at the side view of a diamond. The 58th facet, known as the culet, is found at the bottom of the pavilion, and is flat. The purpose of the culet is to protect the pavilion from fractures and chipping. The table, found on top, is a large and flat facet. The proportions of a diamond refer to the relationships between the pavilion depth, the table size, and the crown angle. There are many possible combinations of proportions that are the factors that affect the way the diamond interacts with light. Diamond cut grades range from excellent to poor.

Pavilion depth is judged by the amount of space from the girdle bottom to the culet. A diamond that is well cut will reflect more light out of the crown.

COLOR

The lack of color is the factor that makes diamonds rare and valuable. Commonly, diamonds found in retail jewelry stores throughout the world will be in the range of colorless to near colorless, sometimes possessing subtle hints of yellow or brown. The scale that is used to color grade diamonds ranges from D, which is colorless, to Z, which contains a lot of color. Each letter grade is not just a color, but a range of colors. Diamond experts color grade diamonds by comparing them to other diamonds under very specific lighting and viewing conditions. Most of these color differences are extremely difficult for an untrained diamond grader to even notice. But these subtle differences in color, play a very important role in diamond price, both in the retail and wholesale divisions. Beyond Z in the color grading scale, diamonds can become fancy colors, and are also very valuable when they possess a lot of color.

CLARITY

Diamonds generally possess unique fingerprints, because of the extreme conditions they form under. These extreme conditions are heat and pressure. The fingerprints they contain are either internal, called inclusions, or external, called blemishes. When judging diamond clarity, it is the absence of these inclusions and blemishes that make the diamond valuable. Diamonds without any fingerprints are extremely rare, and it is the rarity that ultimately affects the diamond’s value. Diamonds range in clarity grades from Flawless (Fl) to heavily included (I3). All diamonds are rare and unique. The standard magnification for viewing diamonds is 10x, which is viewed under a jeweler’s loupe or microscope. No diamond is completely perfect under 10x magnification, but flawless diamonds come close, and are very rare. The majority of jewelers, either wholesalers or retailers, have never even seen a flawless diamond. The clarity grading scale contains 11 grades, and 6 major categories. The six major categories are Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very Very Slightly Included (VVS), Very Slightly Included (VS), Slightly Included (SI) , and Included (I).

Flawless (FL) diamonds have absolutely no inclusions (internal) or blemishes (external) that are visible to a trained diamond grader under 10x magnification. Internally Flawless Diamonds (IF) possess blemishes (external) but never have inclusions (internal), when viewed by a trained diamond grader under 10x magnification.

Very Very Slightly Included (VVS) diamonds have inclusions (internal) that are difficult for a trained diamond expert to view under 10x magnification. Beyond that, there are two categories (VVS1 and VVS2) that are used depending on a number of factors and effects that the inclusions have on the diamond. Some of these factors include, but are not limited to, the position of the inclusion and the size of the inclusion.

Very Slightly Included (VS) diamonds have inclusions that are easily viewed, but are categorized as minor, by a trained grader under 10x magnification. There are also two categories (VS1 and VS2), that the diamond will fall into based a number of factors.

Slightly Included (SI) diamonds have inclusions that are noticeable to a trained diamond expert under 10x magnification. This category also is subdivided into SI1 and SI2.
Included (I) diamonds have inclusions that are obvious to a trained grader under 10x magnification. Depending on the severity of the inclusions, the inclusions may affect durability, transparency, and brilliance.

CARAT

Diamonds, as well as other gemstones, are weighed in metric carats. One carat is the weight equivalent to 0.2 grams. There are 100 points to one carat. Two diamonds weighing the same can have very different values depending on all of the possible combinations of color, clarity, and cut. Most diamonds weigh less than one carat. It is very important to be precise when discussing diamond weights, because diamond prices increase at an increasing rate. Three five point diamonds are not as valuable as one fifteen point diamond, even though they weigh the same. Diamonds weighing less than one carat are expressed in hundredths of carats. Diamonds weighing more than one carat are expressed in numbers and decimals (ex 2.03cts).

ROLEX OYSTER PRUDCTION
DATES BY SERIAL NUMBER
 

*Please note: in mid 1954 Rolex went back to 100,000, not to 1,100,000 on case numbers for the Oyster watch.